Bolivia, 25 April 2017, Downhill - the death road.
I have watched videos on You Tube. I have read. But it's not the same. It's awesome - this is the only word that comes to my mind, when someone asks me about impressions. The most important is the bike. The brakes, derailleurs, then a helmet and pads ... and a good insurance - containing protection of practicing extreme sports.
Adrenaline could be felt already in the bus. We were going in tree. Together with us three Italians. Several people folded. At the agency, we choose protective clothing, helmets and check bikes. Finally, we're slowly moving all over La Paz up to La Cumbre 4650 m above sea level –amazing view. We change clothes. It's cold. The first bike testing. We get on. First, we take the asphalt road. I have fear in my eyes. I'm running ... but I'm the last one. Italians are riding like crazy - my friends are not on bicycles only on the bus, comfortably. I have what I want. The winding road. Cars, buses and trucks are ahead of us... but are we driving down there. I have the impression that I fly. Every corner makes me shiver, heart palpitations. It's only thanks to adrenalinę I did not come down.
End. We left the new asphalt road for the most dangerous part of the death route - closed today for ordinary traffic.
The road is about 80 km, leads from La Paz to Coroico. Built in the 1930s, by paraguayan war prisoners captured during the Chaco war. It was to connect the Altiplano heights to the Amazon plains. In 1995, the Inter-American Development Bank called this route "the most dangerous in the world". Approximately 300 people died there each year. In 2006, the renovation was completed. Asphalt was poured and the road was widened by 1 lane. The most dangerous section has been excluded from traffic. Now cyclists are roaming the route. It must be noted that it`s also dangerous to them. Over a dozen or so years, about 18 cyclists fell into the abyss.
Jungle high. The view is quite different now. The road is quite different. We take off the first layer of our clothes. It's getting humidity. An amazing change for me. I love to ride a bike. And the gravel road suits me amazingly. Only you have to watch out for the stones - not to be burnt at best - at worst, do not fall into the abyss and disappear forever. Yes, no one will look for our body - no one will find it.
On the way we pass symbolic graves - those who fell - reckless riding a bike can also end this way. A month before our downhill, a friend of our guide died. He was driving a bus. It was slippery. He wanted to safely bypass cyclists – but he fell with the vehicle. The guide has tears in his eyes - we realized how downhill could be dangerous. You really have to be careful.
I'm going down the road. Silence and peace. You can hear only the sound of water - tiny waterfalls crossing our way, the rustling of wheels and the sounds of birds. Wonderful. You want to go faster and faster but you can not go past the guide - rigid safety rules - not to die. The turns are sharp. We have frequent stops at which we are aware of how a dangerous route is. We absolutely follow the rules. Of course, none of us have doubts - we want to experience the adventure and be able to tell about it. In fact, during the downhill there is no time to watch the views – I`m looking at the road, try to avoid the stones, slow down to cross small streams. Adrenaline is also doing its job - so I peek sideways - is really beautiful. Not beautiful - wonderful. I feel freedom, joy ... After a few hours we are down - and I want more. Coroico lies at 1200 m above sea level. It means that within 5 hours we have overcome the difference of 3500 m! Now we have lunch and a pool full of hot water - shower, food and relax - wonderful.
I will definitely come back to do it again.